Sunday, August 8, 2010

Hatfield's

7458 Beverly Blvd
Los Angeles, CA
http://www.hatfieldsrestaurant.com/

It would be interesting to find out how it came to be that "eating" would be the best way to celebrate the passing of another year in one's life. We eat every day, three meals a day (sometimes more). So it's a bit puzzling that we'd choose to do something we do multiple times a day to celebrate. But there's always something special about a birthday dinner. Maybe its that with old age, receiving presents gets replaced with being treated out for dinner. Maybe its not the eating itself, but the fact that it's symbolic of the celebration of another year gone by. Maybe it's just being able to get together with friends and family and enjoying their company. Maybe its the single candle you get with your dessert regardless of your age. Whatever it is, birthday dinners are always more memorable and typically set themselves apart from most other meals enjoyed throughout the year.

In order to help celebrate D's 29 years of existence, F&E left the kids at home and took us to Hatfield's, winners of a Michelin star in 2009. The original plan was to dine at WP24, but they since they are closed on Sundays, Hatfield's was the next best thing. The restaurant interior is sleek and intimate. The main dining room sits in a large open space with high ceilings, the center of which is adorned by an artistically-disjointed honeycomb structure. On the far wall of the main dining room is a large window that looks directly into the kitchen.

amuse
1. amuse bouche - A crab salad that lacked excitement. The crab meat was flat, without the natural sweetness that typically makes it so delicious.

soup
2. english pea soup - Served cold, this was a nice way to kick off the meal after the lackluster amuse. The cheese added a nice heft and "croutons" added texture. The flavors were light and subtle, which would be the prevailing characteristic of many of the night's dishes.

trout
3. frisee and smoked trout salad - Another nice appetizer. Somewhat reminiscent of the salad we had at Ad Hoc but no where near as complex. The trout was lightly salted and complimented the vinaigrette.

squid
4. squid with parmesean foam - The squid had a very nice, "bouncy" consistency. The sparse lemon zest provided a nice kick of acidity now and again. The taste of the parmesean wasn't altogether noticeable.

fish
5. black cod "en croute" - The flesh was tender and flaky, while the skin retained a nice bit of crispiness. How two contrasting textures can occupy the same piece of flesh speaks to the chef's masterful technique. However, it was the crushed tomatoes that made this dish sing. They provided sharp notes of acid and subtle bits of sweetness. Without them, this dish would have been one dimensional.

beef
6. horseradish dusted short ribs - A light red meat protein. The meat was tender and juicy although without the boldness typically associated with ribs. This is not necessarily a complaint, but just reiterating the central theme of light and subtle flavors.

belly
7. confit of pork belly - Another dish that strays away from the typical bold flavors usually associated with this cut of meat. However, the belly was still very tender and paired nicely with the corn and complimenting puree.

bread pudding
9. cinnamon swirl brioche pudding - Adhering to the theme of the night, the desserts were subtle as well. The ice cream and pudding were light and creamy and nicely complimented by the pickled cherries.

gelato
10. sorbet and ice cream trio: green apple vermouth, black forest, caramel corn - All three flavors really captured the essense of their namesake. A nice palate cleanser to end the meal.

Hatfield's was a nice change of pace from the food we usually eat, which tends to be heavier, with bolder flavors. The cuisine was centered around execution and subtlety. The service was attentive and friendly, as would be expected at a Michelin-rated establishment. Overall, an enjoyable meal. However, we would still rank it below similar LA eateries such as Providence and Melisse.

Thanks again to F&E for a great time!