Beverly Hills, CA 90211
http://redmedicinela.com/
We have been eagerly anticipating the opening of Red Medicine ever since our meal at Test Kitchen. That night, Jordan Kahn presented his version of the traditional Vietnamese 7 courses of beef with Wagyu beef. We had a glimpse and taste of his creativity and couldn't wait to see what yumminess was in store for his newest venture with Umami Burger owner, Adam Fleischman.
1. sweet potato, dried chili, turmeric, beer, baby shrimp, lettuce - We love sweet potato fries so was hoping for an interesting twist in this version. The thinly sliced potatoes resulted in the loss of the sweet potato flavor. The butter lettuce seemed like a nice compliment, in theory, but did little to tie the dish together. And the fish sauce simply overwhelmed the natural flavors of the potato. Additionally, it was a bit difficult to eat, with shreds of fried orange strings crumbing all over the table and floors with every bite. Neither the lettuce nor the potatoes held on to the fish sauce which tended to drip down your hand and onto your clothes. We tend to be messy eaters but the construction of this dish didn't help the cause. This dish definitely lacked the sophistication we'd come to expect from Chef Khan.
2. brussel’s sprouts, caramelized shallots, fish sauce, vermouth - this dish sounded very similar to the one we fell in love with at Momofuku with the fish sauce added in. However, while Momofuku's was refreshing and light, this version was too heavy on the salt and oil, leaving a greasy taste in our mouthes. The bits of shrimp chip did well to add another layer of texture but did little else to compliment the dish as a whole. Another sub-par dish.
3. banh mi, foie gras, pate de campagne - Unlike the first two dishes, this reinvented banh mi sings of the creativity we first encounted at Test Kitchen. This dish had the elegance, sophistication and imagination that we'd come to expect from Chef Khan. The foie was the foundation of the dish but was supported well by the crispy bread and picked veggies. The mint and jalepenos elegantly positioned for a two-bite consumption of each little sandwich. One of the best dishes of the night.
4. calve’s tongue, quince, daikon, young walnut, mustard seeds - we had a similiar dish at Test Kitchen and preferred the tastes in that version better. However, the tongue was supremely tender, even more so than the presentation we had at Test Kitchen. However, the accompanying daikon lacked the level of acidity to properly balance the protein. The appearance of quince was a nice touch, while the mustard seeds felt out of place.
5. pork, caramelized black vinegar and honey, prunes, sorrel, white poppy, dried almond - This felt like an incomplete dish. Everything about it was nice, but something was missing. The flavor of the pork was good - sweet and slightly salty like other similarly braised pork meats. However, the intensity of flavor required more than a few sprinkling of greens and dried almond crumbles. I would have liked a carb or fresh veggie to be served along side it. Had this come with a side of rice or some other carb to balance out the flavors, it would have been a success.
Time for dessert. Knowing Chef Kahn's training as a pastry chef at Per Se, French Laundry and Michael Mina, we had high hopes for this portion of our meal - and we weren't disappointed.
6. coconut bavarios, coffee, condensed milk, thai basil, peanut croquant, chicory - this dessert was recommended by our waitress who raved about it. The dish both looks and tastes like a work of art. There were so many flavors and textures that every bite tasted different from the last. It was one of the best dishes of the night.
7. lemongrass pot de creme, sweet potato, orange blossom, red bull, bergamot - this was also recommended by our waitress and it tasted very similiar to the lime sabayon we had previously at Test Kitchen. There were the same textures: creaminess of the custard, crunch from the cookie and the crumbles. However, the flavors were different and definitely not as sour as the previous lime version. Still a yummy dessert but not as good at the coconut bavarios.
All in all, a good meal. Having been the second day of their grand opening, we had expected the restaurant to be somewhat busier. Although the main dining room was mostly filled, I got the feeling that they were not turning away walk-ins. Hopefully business will pick up - with a little menu tweaking, this place can easily become of our favorite spots in LA. The food was not bad, but we felt that it lacked a bit of focus. Some dishes were very rustic while others were pure sophistication. It's not for us to define what Chef Khan should strive for, but we feel that he's most successful when he's delivering the latter.
Oh, and as we wrapped up our meal, a group of 4 gentleman sat down beside us which included Sang Yoon of Father's Office and Walter Manzke, former chef of Church and State. A semi-celebrity spotting, if you will. We wish Chef Khan all the best with his new venture and will more than likely return to try some of his other fare.