Friday, May 7, 2010

Animal 2.0

435 N. Fairfax Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90036
(323) 782-9225
www.animalrestaurant.com

Animal sits on a popular thorough"fare (-fax"), but is nondescript, with no signage indicating its presence. The interior is dark, somewhat simplistic but at the same time very lively. And those themes translate to the food as well. Everything about Animal feels right. The name, the space in which it resides, the food. Oh...the food. Animal isn't "beef" or "pork" or "chicken", at least not in our typical, everyday conceptions of these proteins. Animal can be anything, and as it turns out, usually is. The food doesn't feel complicated but tastes sophisticated. With the ever changing menu and a very positive experience the first time around, a return trip was inevitable.

Broccoli
1. baby broccoli, pancetta, parmesan, soft egg, bread crumbs - ordering veggies at Animal is like wearing a Dodgers' jersey to a Lakers game. It just feels out of place. However, the sense of unease in doing so is always tempered with additions of pancetta, cheese and egg to accompany the greens. Baby broccoli always has that nice, subtle earthy bitterness. The soft boil egg adds a level of depth and richness. Cheese for savoriness and bread crumbs for additional texture. A great way to get any meat lover to eat their vegetables.

Head Cheese
2. head cheese, corn bread fritters - "head cheese" always seems like such a misnomer. There's nothing "cheesy" about it. If you get queasy at the idea of eating offals, head cheese is something you'd likely never order. But were that the case, you'd miss out on one of the best dishes at Animal. This version of the dish flips the idea of gelatinous cold cuts made from the boiled down remains of an animal's noggin on it's proverbial head. It was served warm and texturally tender, almost melting in your mouth. There was a pleasant sweet acidity to it and the dollops of sriracha added a nice heat. And that's before biting into the corn bread fritters. So good. So yummy. Could just eat a whole plate of those things.

FG Loco Moco
3. foie gras loco moco, quail egg, spam, hamburger - Egg on top of liver on top of mystery meat on top of beef on top of rice. Tasty, but a bit over the top. A "normal" loco moco is already very rich. When foie gras and spam get added, you feel a bit overwhelmed. The flavors don't really compliment each other as much as they exist independently on the same plate. Everything tasted fine, but the dish lacked a certain synergy of flavors. And it could have used a little more rice, as both the proteins and the accompanying sauce were very bold.

It's always a nice feeling to go into a meal with high expectation and still come out happy. The service is always very friendly. Food is way above par (or way below for you golfers). Therefore, a return trip is already in the works. We can't wait!