Food is a necessity. We all need it to survive. Unless you're this guy. But even if I could survive without eating, I don't think I'd give up food. Food, at least good food, feeds more than your stomach. Good food just makes you FEEL good. When we taste something good, we typically give a subtle head nod or let out a casual "mmmm". But when it's REALLY good, it brings a smile to my face. And that exactly what happened this past Monday night at Melisse.
The restaurant has been on our "To Eat" list for a while now. It's two Michelin stars were a huge draw but it's location in Santa Monica was a huge deterrent. After getting word that there was to be a "Michelin Mashup" collaboration dinner between Chef Josiah Citrin of Melisse and Chef April Bloomfield of the Spotted Pig in New York, also a Michelin star recipient, we made reservations almost immediately. Also preparing a dish was Chef Ray Garcia of Fig Restaurant, also located in Santa Monica. The fact that a portion of the proceeds from that night's event were to benefit Special Olympics was just icing on the cake.
Traffic was relatively light so we made it out to the West Side right on time for our 6:15 reservation, which was a plus. Also found convenient street parking which was free after 6:00pm, double plus!
The only dining option was a pre-designed chef's tasting menu. There were a total of seven courses, of which three were prepared by Melisse's Chef de Cuisine Ken Takayama and Chef Citrin, another three by Chef Bloomfield and an entree by Chef Garcia. All four chefs signed the menu which we were allowed to take home.
1. amuse bouche - Foie gras terrine with melon gelee with melon sphere. A fantastic way to start the night! The foie was light and creamy, but it was the thin layer of melon gelee on top that made this amuse transcendent. The gelee provided a sweet and tart finish which paired wonderfully with the liver. The sphere was light and fruity, heavily accently with cantaloupe. The best starter dish we've had since 11 Madison Park.
2. wild japanese kanpachi, sorrel, cucumber, passionfruit-espellete (Chef Citrin & Chef Takayama) - Another fantastic starter. The texture of the kanpachi was incredibly tender. The sorrel panna cotta added a nice touch of herbaciousness to the fish. However, it was the presense of the sea salt that seemed to tie the whole dish together. The salt's crunchy texture and savoriness made all the difference.
3. heirloom tomato gazpacho, crisp olives (Chef Bloomfield) - A dish that's commonly associated with summer. Tomatoes would be a recurring theme in a few savory dishes that night. This first iteration was a tasty one. Cool, creamy tomatoes balance with a bit of acidity and garlic. The best preparation of gazpacho I've ever had. The crispy olive was not needed, although it did provide for a nice contrast in texture.
4. squid basquaise, nduja, forbidden rice, piment d'anglet, prosciutto (Chef Garcia) - Tomato makes its second appearance of the night. And with so much going on in this dish, it was the presense of the summer fruit, in the form of the basquaise (tomato-based sauce), that tied everything together. Every bite yield different flavor and texture combinations. The best entree of the night.
5. boudin blanc, sauteed market potatoes, basil, pickled mustard seed (Chef Bloomfield) - A rustic preparation that is more synonymous to Chef Bloomfield's style of cooking. Although the "smashed" potatoes were tasty, the sausage lacked depth. It was simple to a fault. The meat was juicy and the casing had a nice "bounce" to it, but the sausage fell flat in terms of flavor.
6. artic char, spiced lentils, anchovy-pinenut bread crumb (Chef Bloomfield) - Tomato makes its third appearance of the night. It appears to have been peeled and stewed. It had a great acidity that paired well with the salmon, I mean artic char, both of which, we've come to realize, taste very similar. The lentils wer almost hummus-like and served as a great compliment to the fish as well. The artic char itself was tender with a crispy skin attached. However, it was really the accoutrement that made this dish.
7. Snake River Farms Wagyu Beef, chanterelle mushrooms, brentwood corn, summer truffles, "Jus de Bouef Acidule" (Chef Citrin & Chef Takayama) - The final savory dish of the night. Similar to the basquaise, this dish also contained a variety of elements. As with most wagyu, the meat was incredibly tender. The braised beef was even more so. The accompanying jus and summer truffle didn't quite hit there mark, as their presense was somewhat unnecessary. The surprise on the dish was the potato stack and corn "sauce" on the left. Swirled and eaten together, it was like the world's greatest potato and corn soup. Light and textural potato paired with sweet corn puree was a delicious combination. Those two together could have been a dish on its own.
8. strawberry, basil and pistachio (Chef Citrin & Chef Takayama) - Presented as three different preparations of two ingredients in one dessert. A wonderful surprise of a dessert. The presense of the basil felt out of place at first, but that unease quickly subsides as you begin to realize that every bite is quite delicious. In essence, the basil takes the seat that is usually occupied by mint. This dish provided a variety of different flavors and textures to enjoy. The brown butter ice cream was a bonus. A very fresh take on sweets.
The service was very attentive and friendly. The interior of the restaurant is beautiful. The stark black and white motif is complimented well with large expanses of royal purple. An environment made for fine dining. From start to finish, this was one of the best meals we've had in Los Angeles. A dinner that definitely brought a lot of smiles to my face.